Following is a listing of Technical Thoughts that may assist with some troubleshooting or problem solving in your Home if you cannot find an answer to your concern then please give me a call or follow us on Twitter http://twitter.com/athomeandplay

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Spray Foam Insulation (Feb 2nd 2012) If you are in the market for upgrading your insulation then the fashionable alternative and Hi efficiency recommendation is sprayed on Foam Insulation. If you are making the commitment become informed before you do about the process, options available and costs. Many contractors are seeing this as a new cash cow to add to their business or starting new businesses without being fully trained and aware.
 
Ill informed contractors are jumping on the bandwagon and incorrectly applying this very efficient and useful component without properly controlling the process and /or not effectively ventilating the workspace. This can lead to toxic gases being left to offgas from the insulation over time as it cures and can be identified as a "Fishy" aroma, so be careful in the selection of the contractor for your job and dont become 1 of the 1% that may have to go so far as to need removal of the insulation to make your space rehabitable
 

SMOKE DETECTORS: (Apr 23rd 2011) Smoke detectors are a mandatory item and life saving tool in homes today but Carbon Monoxide detectors are an equally but sometimes ignored important safety addition in todays modern home that have a source of combustion used in the heating or cooking processes ( natural gas, propane or wood ) An unknown issue is the life of these types of safety tool other than the well publicised need to change batteries on some styles annually. The internal monitoring cell can become unreliable or fail completely without indication after approx 12 years (Carbon Monoxide detectors 5 year life) so continued testing of this device should be part of awareness in the home.

WETT INSPECTIONS: (Apr 2nd 2011) If you have a wood burning fireplace or stove in your home it is recommended to have it inspected and cleaned annually (by a W.E.T.T. certified professional – visit http://www.wettinc.ca/).

ASBESTOS: (Mar 13th 2011) Materials containing in excess of 0.5% of asbestos are defined as being Asbestos Containing materials and are a health hazard that can only become evident 20 -  40 years after exposure. In homes constructed after 1945 and up to 1975 there are many items in a home that could contain asbestos to this level. ranging from the well recognised Vermiculite insulation to cladding of heating pipes and ducts, others less recognised are floor and ceiling tiles, caulking/jointing materials , electrical insulation, roofing felt and carpet glue. As long as the materials are not "Friable" and therefore do not become airborne and able to be inhaled they are not an immediate concern but if being removed from a home the task should be completed under controlled procedures including wetting down, controlled disposal and use of breathing protection.

If in doubt about materials in your home always default to safety first and obtain 3 samples of material which can be analysed for the content. At Home & Play can assist in this procedure.

You may believe that your "home is your castle" and that whatever you are doing within its confines are your responsibility BUT if you are using outside assistance, even if it is voluntary help from friends and family, you then become an employer and ALL the regulations of the MINISTRY of LABOUR BECOME APPLICABLE TO YOUR WORKSITE, from Personal Protective Equipment to Tie Offs for elevated workspaces.

BEDBUGS: (Mar 1st 2011) As people involved in the real estate transaction we all are exposed to this recently spiralling growth and exposure to this delicate issue. Although there is no health issue associated to an infestation of this pest there is a major stigma in finding these parasites. Recent studies indicate an increase in North America of 2010 cases, 3X more than in 2009 and expect to be 10X by 2015. Here follows some suggestions and some indicators to be aware of:

MAJOR FLAG: Legs of beds sitting in dishes of some description with mineral oil or vaseline as a "moat" around the legs. Meant to isolate the bed and catch any insects travelling through the dish. If searching for for signs look closely in creases in the bed piping or tight spaces on the bed base for brown apple seed sized indications. Eggs are even smaller and white/transparent. If trying to investigate very large areas (multi dwelling locations) then specially trained dogs can be very succesfully used.

Bites on a persons are usually in a line approx in line with the "tide line"of the sheets on your bed, lines of dark stains on the sheets or mattress similar marks from a "Sharpy Pen" are indications of bed bug faeces. If bites are not in lines or are only below your knees these maynot be Bedbug indications.

The majority of "nests" are specifically in bedroom areas although other regions of limited movement and warm environments are becoming likely venues for them to make into a home, IE: Theatres and Offices public and private. Generally they are a nocturnal insect and only need to venture out for approx 10 minutes each week to gain food so the likelyhood of us encountering them and transferring them to our own homes, unless we are hunting them is extreamly low. On a personal note frequenting used clothing and furniture stores increases your possible exposure and when buying soft furniture or specifically bedding and the vendor offers the free removal of old bedding this exposes your new purchase to the old bedding being picked up: as they are stored adjacent to the new items in the transport truck so likely not such a good idea.

The best ways to remove an infestation is by application of heat, either steaming of the furnishings and placing the clothing in a clothes dryer for approx 5 mins on full heat, or fullout heat sterilisation of the rooms (attaining 145 F for 3 hours) concerned in the home at a cost of $700 - $2000. Trying to purge by placing items outside in cold weather may not be very successful as the bugs can survive for serval days to weeks at -10 C.

SKYLIGHTS : (Nov 25th 2010) Energy savings can be one reason why people consider adding skylights to homes or are attracted to homes with them already installed. Along with additional light provided they can give energy savings up to 15% when coupled with efficient windows and doors and improved ventilation. They are a significant risk of moisture entry and leaks however and are a starting point for inspection of attics and roofs especially if they pre date 1995.
 
My humble opinion: Skylights are the same as basements there are 2 types, those that are leaking and those that will at some point in the future.
 
Solar panels can provide electrical savings or simpler systems can be water heating systems and are receiving more general acceptance across Canada  and can result in savings of 50 - 80% of water heating costs for installation investments from $6 - 12k
 
Tax rebates are still available for the installation of approved units

UREA FORMALDEHIDE : (November 7th 2010)  Should you be concerned that there is a possibility that there is UFFI insulation installed in a home that you are considering then a certificate should be available if the material was removed by a certified contractor. Another option is to sample the air quality  this will not confirm absolutely that there is none of this insulation existing as over time it degasses but confirms its lack of airborne contaminants.

ELECTRICAL FAULTS: (November 1st 2010) Ontario’s Electrical Safety Authority (ESA) warns the public that 33% of residential fires reported by the office of the Ontario Fire Marshal are associated with electrical wiring and equipment.This includes: electrical circuit wiring, damaged or improperly rated extension cords or cables,breaker/fuse panels, light fixtures (luminaires), receptacles and switches. Fires are prevalent in both copper and aluminum wiring systems. Investigations of these electrical fires identified that 34% are attributed to incorrect or improper installation and/or procedure.
Through recent research conducted with Ontario homeowners, ESA identified that 47% of residents living in homes 15 to 50 years old have modified or replaced electrical wiring and electrical equipment. This increased to 84% for homes greater than 50 years old.
Electrical wiring is complicated and presents safety hazards if not properly installed and maintained. Homeowners are encouraged to ensure their electrical installations meet the safety standards defined in the Ontario Electrical Safety Code by engaging a licensed electrical contractor to evaluate their electrical system if they have signs of potential electrical hazards, such as: circuit breakers that frequently trip or fuses that frequently blow, lights that flicker, and signs of wiring deterioration; or if they have concerns about the qualifications of individuals who previously worked on their electrical system.
In response to concerns about unqualified individuals doing electrical work, Ontario regulation was introduced in January 2007 requiring any person operating an electrical contracting business to be licensed by the Electrical Safety Authority. Homeowners should retain the services of a licensed electrical contractor to ensure their electrical installations are done correctly and safely. In addition, when homeowners have new electrical installations installed, they should confirm with their licensed electrical contractor that an application for inspection was filed with the Electrical Safety Authority for any electrical work done on their premises, and ask for a copy of the Certificate of Inspection – their record that the installation meets Ontario’s safety standards.
When planning to do electrical work, think about the risks associated with unsafe electrical installations. Contact a licensed electrical contractor, and make sure they arrange for an electrical permit.
 
Visit
www.pluginsafely.ca for a list of licensed electrical contractors in Ontario
 

PRODUCT RECALL; (March 2010) There has been a posting by the CSA that Liquidation World has been selling a stand alone gas fireplace that although it is very attractive it is the type that has no venting system..... NOT approved by CSA. Should be discontinued from use and returned to Liquidation World
 
Contact me for more information 
 
Ornate design, white in colour

HEATING - BOILERS: (October 16th 2010) TSSA Mandated Inspection; Water Boilers that are fueled by Propane and Natural Gas, are naturally draughted and are less than 300,000 Btu in size (this would be most that would be installed in residential homes) have a mandatory inspection required for Carbon Monoxide emissions and unless they have less than 100 ppm then they must be shut down until they can be serviced/repaired. This inappropriate operation can be caused by lack of maintenance or by inferior installation.
This inspection must be carried out annually and a record of the sucessful inspection should be posted adjacent to the boiler.

ROOFING: (Oct 1st 2010) Although many authorities advise that multiple layers of asphalt shingles can be acceptable there are definate reductions in longevity resulting, up to 50% of life can be lost by each subsequent thickness of shingles applied over another. This also reduces the possibilties of inspection / replacement of flashings and sheathing when not removing the worn out shingles. Did you know also that when sheathing has to be replaced a building permit is required as this is a significant part of the buildings structure.

SEPTIC SYSTEMS: (Sept 27th 2010)Septic system regulation changes have arrived
For the first time ever regulations on a home that are retroactive not just for new homes, these driven by environmental concerns from the Walkerton enquiry. If you have or are looking at a home that has a septic system installed them inspections to confirm appropriate operation are coming and then will be every 5 years thereafter assuming enough inspectors can be trained.

NEW HOME INSPECTIONS; (Sept 11th 2010) I was involved with an inspection recently which shows the value of inspections of new builds, especially for property virgins as some call first time buyers. Even experienced home owners don't always know all the specifics of a homes systems and can be starry eyed and caught up in the moment.

Return and delivery ducting cross connected, gas fireplace not vented and HRV system ducting installed but HRV not. Inefficient operation , sickness and possible life safety issues could be the result of being too trusting. People make errors, one of my tried and trusted statements.... "The only people that don't make errors are people that don't do anything and homes are built by people that are doing something"

SAFETY: (March 24th 2010) 1. Be sure to check the function of the Temperature/Pressure relief valve on the water heater or water boiler installed in your home by depressing the lever slightly and release a small amount of hot water onto the floor. If it does release and reseal than all is good. If it either doesn't release or doesn't reseal then for the small cost of a new valve, or to get your rental provider to come and replace it, is a small price to pay for safety.

IF THIS VALVE MALFUNCTIONS THE RESULT CAN BE SO CATASTROPHIC THE HOME MAY BE LEVELLED .

This test should be carried out annually
 
2. Replace your furnace filter regularly, monthly, bi monthly or quarterly as required by your environment. If plugged in winter the result can be overheating of the furnace heatexchanger because of a lack of airflow. CRACKS MAY BE THE RESULT. Then Carbon Monoxide may enter the home. If plugged in summer then the AC coil may freeze up, again due to lack of adequate air flow. When this melts water will cascade over the heatexchanger causing rust. Again premature failure of the heatexchanger may result with the possiblility of CO entering the home.

BACTERIAL GROWTH: (June 22nd  2010)You will never see the word        " Mould" indicated on my inspection reports unless it can be inconclusively determined that there is a mould issue, as particularly insurance and mortgage companies can become quite concerned about this matter let alone the stresses created for homeowners and possible purchasors. ( I do have a swabbing method of checking this which is outside of my normal inspection scope ) Note there are thousands of types of mould not all are a health concern in themselves and colour is not a true indicator of the type of growth as this is somewhat dependant upon the food available for it.

What is true is that if there is a growth then there is a moisture issue of some type existing which needs greater investigation, efflorescence can be confused with bacterial growth so great care should be exercised when making comment in this type of situation

HEALTH AND SAFETY: (April 28th 2010) Please consider your homes safety should a fire breakout. At minimum homes MUST have smoke detectors installed appropriately (check batteries/function on a regular basis, the internal sensor has a life of approx 10 years), a better system incorporates Carbon Monoxide detection, an even better system includes a heat detector as if a fire burns hot enough and efficiently enough then the Bi-products of combustion will be negligable.
 
Many retrofit Carbon Monoxide detectors plug into electrical outlets..... ensure they have a battery backup function. Better protection will be provided by a pure battery powered unit, or directly wired into an electrical circuit, as this can be placed at an elevated level. NOTE: Most electrical outlets are approx 18" above the floor, most beds are approx 24" above the floor. If you are trying to protect a sleeping person from CO poisoning.... THIS SITUATION IS INADEQUATE as CO is lighter than air so approaches you from above.
 
Also regarding Electrical circuits in homes protected by magnetic circuit breakers. If you have a troublesome circuit that regularly trips then this needs replacing by a competant licensed electrical contractor, as each time it trips each successive time it is loaded it will be more likely to trip again as it deteriorates, also regarding Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI's) in the bathroom, kitchen or garden, these have a life cycle of 10 - 15 years and should be properly tested regularly, THIS IS A LIFE SAFETY ISSUE.

CHIMNEYS: (June 5th 2010)This part of your structure along with the roof is very often neglected as they are out of your normal field of vision. Chimneys should be cleaned regularly, particularly if the fuel used is wood as the black deposits, soot and creosote, are a fire hazard if they build up in excess of 1/8" coating. This can also void your insurance if you have no documented proof of cleaning and a chimney fire develops. Ensure you have a rain cap on your chimney as moisture inside can create deterioration of the mortar and bricks themselves on masonry chimneys or rusting will result in steel chimneys. Pointing can repair minor deterioration but if mortar erodes more than 1/2" deep then replacing the bricks may be the expensive solution. Major failure, collapse, of the chimney may finally be the result if ignored long enough. WETT inspection is a neccessary process for wood burning fireplaces along with prior sweeping       AH & P can assist in this manner also.

APRIL SHOWERS: (April 30th 2010) At this time of year April Showers bring May Flowers they say, but they can also bring leaky basements. Be vigilent about monitoring potential basement leaks from cracks and check your sump pump, the lonely little piece of hardware in your cold storage or in the corner of the mechanical room. Test it regularly otherwise you may be facing a costly cleanup, consider adding an alarm to it to make you aware if the breaker drops out.
 
Also keep an eye on the condensate drains from the Air Conditioner you maybe cranking up soon or the drain from the Hi Efficiency furnace that you installed under the now defunct Federal Energy Programme. Ensure there are no kinks or blockages of other types and they are still attached to the drain they are intended for. People don't realise that these 2 pieces of common equipment can generate 1 liter of water every 30 minutes.... potentially 24 hours per day.
regards

MOISTURE: (May 20th 2010) My latest piece of information relates to Moisture/Humidity in the home. First of all Homes built prior to the mid 1980's likely have a humidifier installed these should be on the return plenum of your furnace and the control should be installed in the living area NOT in the basement mechanical room, unless you spend a majority of your time in that area . Newer homes are more adequately sealed retaining their moisture so likely do not need that added moisture, rather more emphasis should be upon purging that moisture from the home to prevent Microbial Growth (Mould/Mildew)..........NOTE my reports never use the word "Mould" only a lab is capable of identifying mould to 100% certainty. Exhaust fans should be used to excess; bathroom and kitchen, if you have a Heatilator ( HRV) use this system regularly. Otherwise regularly opening windows/doors will do the deal also although this is not the common practice in modern life year round. A way of removing the moisture in your bathroom quickly after a shower is to turn on the cold faucet for a few minutes after you have stepped out of the shower, this will counteract the airborne heat as quickly if not quicker than opening the window especially if its already humid outside.
 
Many people are not aware, but listed below is the amount of moisture released into the air on a regular basis in your home:
 
First Year of Occupation in New Construction: approx 2500 litres as the interior dries.
 
Daily living 4 person family: 10 litres per day
 
1 Cord of Wood Fuel for Wood Stove: 5 liters per day
 
Exposed soil in Basement: 50 litres per day
 
Airconditioner/Hi Efficiency Furnace up to 1/2 liter of condensate per hour

EVEN NEW HOMES: (July 30 2010) All homes need TLC and maintenance.